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Coastal Geomorphology
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Which of the following is NOT an agent of coastal erosion?
Options:
- Sea waves
- Oceanic currents
- Tidal waves
- Rivers
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The most powerful and effective erosive agent of coastal areas is
Options:
- Tidal waves
- Tsunamis
- Oceanic currents
- Sea waves
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What are swells?
Options:
- Undulations of sea water characterized by well-developed crests and troughs
- Low, broad, regular and rounded ridges and troughs of water
- A regular pattern of smooth, rounded waves that characterize the surface of the ocean during fair weather
- The upper and lower parts of the waves
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What is fetch?
Options:
- The height of wind-generated sea waves
- The distance between two successive crests or troughs of a sea wave
- The length of water surface over which the wind blows
- The time taken by a sea wave to cover the distance of one wavelength
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Wave velocity directly related to
Options:
- Wave period
- Wave frequency
- Wavelength
- Wave height
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What is the relationship between wavelength and wave frequency?
Options:
- There is a direct relationship
- There is an inverse relationship
- They are not related
- They are equal
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Do water particles within a wave in the seas and oceans move forward with coastward or landward advancing wave itself?
Options:
- Yes, they move forward with the wave
- No, they move in a circular orbit
- They move both forward and in a circular orbit
- They do not move at all
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What is the orbital motion of water particle associated with the passage of a wave like in an open sea?
Options:
- The orbit of particles decreases with increasing depth from the water surface towards the sea bottom
- The orbit of particles increases with increasing depth from the water surface towards the sea bottom
- The orbit of particles remains constant with increasing depth from the water surface towards the sea bottom
- The orbit of particles disappears with increasing depth from the water surface towards the sea bottom
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What do sea waves do after being generated?
Options:
- They remain in the same area where they were generated
- They move randomly in different directions
- They radiate outward from the generating area of the sea
- They disappear after a short period of time
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The most important factor that determines the height of wind-generated sea waves is
Options:
- Wave velocity
- Wave frequency
- Wave period
- The extent of fetch
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Which type of waves decay more rapidly while moving away from the generating area?
Options:
- Waves with longer wavelengths and lower heights
- Waves with shorter wavelengths and greater heights
- Waves with irregular patterns
- Waves with medium wavelengths and heights
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What happens to the wavelength and wave height as waves approach the shore?
Options:
- Both the wavelength and wave height increase
- Both the wavelength and wave height decrease
- Wavelength decreases and wave height increases
- Wavelength increases and wave height decreases
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What is the depth of water when waves begin to touch the bottom?
Options:
- One-third of the wavelength
- Half of the wavelength
- One-fourth of the wavelength
- Twice the wavelength
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The turbulent forward-moving water is called as
Options:
- Plunge line
- Swash
- Surf
- Breaker
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Which type of breaker is associated with steep waves?
Options:
- Plunging breakers
- Spilling breakers
- Surging breakers
- None of the above
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The distance from the shore where waves break is called
Options:
- Plunge line
- Swash
- Surf
- Breaker
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What causes plunging breakers?
Options:
- When the velocities in the wave crest and wave body are almost equal
- When the wavelength and wave height are equal
- When the wave moves rapidly shoreward
- When the wave suffers from friction and distortion
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What is the difference between oscillatory waves and translatory waves?
Options:
- Oscillatory waves move particles in circular orbits while translatory waves move particles forward at the same velocity as the wave form.
- Oscillatory waves move particles forward at the same velocity as the wave form while translatory waves move particles in circular orbits.
- Oscillatory waves and translatory waves both move particles in circular orbits.
- Oscillatory waves and translatory waves both move particles forward at the same velocity as the wave form.
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What are the two major types of sea waves from a geomorphological point of view?
Options:
- High-frequency waves and low-frequency waves
- Constructive waves and destructive waves
- Plunging waves and spilling waves
- Longshore currents and littoral currents
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Why are low-frequency waves considered constructive in character?
Options:
- Because they generate a powerful backwash that combs down the beach
- Because they plunge and generate a powerful backwash that combs down the beach
- Because they lose volume and energy rapidly while moving up the beach
- Because they are generated by high-velocity winds striking the coast obliquely